Brand technical support, direct.

Almost always a frequency-band issue. Most smart thermostats, EV chargers and many inverters only work on 2.4 GHz, not 5 GHz. Modern routers broadcast both under one combined name; your phone joins 5 GHz, the device tries to copy that and fails.

Fix: in your router admin, either split the bands so 2.4 GHz has its own name (e.g. MyHome-2.4), or temporarily disable 5 GHz during setup. Connect your phone to the 2.4 GHz network, then run pairing.

1. Channel width: 2.4 GHz must be set to 20 MHz (not Auto or 40 MHz).
2. Security: WPA2 only, not WPA3.
3. SSID name: avoid spaces, apostrophes and emojis — rename to letters/numbers only and re-pair.

Signal at the device is likely under -70 dBm — controls often sit in cupboards, lofts or behind metal cylinders. Add a mesh node or powerline extender within line-of-sight. For chargers in metal meter boxes, an external aerial or ethernet usually solves it.

Power-cycle the router first, wait two minutes, then power-cycle the device. If the brand has a status page, check there isn't a platform-side outage before calling.

Many ASHPs need a manual restart and clock reset. Check the controller for a flashing status light, restore time/date and confirm the schedule. If it cycles on then trips again, don't keep resetting — call the manufacturer, as repeated faults can damage the compressor.

Usually a small leak or air. Top up via the filling loop to 1.0–1.5 bar (cold). If it drops again within days, leave it and call your installer or the manufacturer — repeatedly topping up oxygenates the water and damages the heat exchanger.

Light frost is normal — the unit defrosts every 30–90 minutes. Persistent heavy ice (fan grille blocked) is not, and indicates a defrost fault, low refrigerant or a failed sensor. Call the renewables line.

Most ASHP systems target 48–55 °C, then a weekly Legionella cycle (immersion) reaches ≥60 °C. Check the schedule includes a daily hot-water window, the immersion isn't tripped, and the cylinder thermostat isn't set below 50 °C.

Condensate from defrost cycles is normal — that's why the unit sits on a stone/gravel base. A puddle with no drain field, or water on the refrigerant lines, isn't. Take a photo and call the technical line.

Note the exact code and check the manual (downloadable from the brand's site). Common codes: E1/E2 sensor fault, E3 low pressure, E5 overheat. Don't reset more than once — repeated resets on an underlying fault can damage the element.

Usually a failed expansion vessel, stuck PRV or reducing valve — none is a DIY fix. By law this requires a G3-qualified installer (P3 Scotland, P5 NI). Continuing to use it while it drips wastes water and may invalidate your warranty.

1. Thermostat calling for heat (turn up 3 °C and listen).
2. Pressure gauge 1–1.5 bar.
3. Timer/programmer not on holiday mode.
4. Gas isolator under the boiler open.

If all four are fine, the PCB or fan is the next culprit — call the helpline.

Usually within 28–30 days of install, online. You'll need the serial number, install date and your installer's Gas Safe / MCS / OFTEC reference. Without registration the warranty defaults to the lowest tier — often 1–2 years instead of 7–10.

Check the AC isolator next to the inverter and the DC isolator (usually rotary) — both must be ON. Note any error codes; most brands have a public error-code lookup. Don't open the inverter housing.

Usually: (1) a reserve percentage kept for backup, (2) you've exceeded the inverter's discharge rate (oven + kettle + EV can top 5 kW), or (3) the CT clamp on the meter tail is loose. Your installer can verify in minutes via the portal.

The inverter counts AC output before house use — including self-used power. The SEG meter only counts exports. The two never match; that's normal.

String inverters drop to the weakest panel's level — which is why optimisers and microinverters exist. With optimisers, the portal shows exactly which is low. With a basic string inverter, an installer tests panel by panel.

Don't reset repeatedly. Note the LED pattern, then check the app — most brands show the specific fault code. The most common is a Type-A RCD trip (on chargers without integrated Type-B protection upstream) — that needs an electrician.

Check (1) your car's onboard charger limit (older EVs and PHEVs often cap at 3.6 kW), (2) solar/load-balancing settings making it wait for surplus, (3) an economy-tariff schedule holding back to off-peak. None of these is a fault.

Probably a Type 2 connector seating issue — push firmly until two clicks, then retry the app. If a public charger works but the home unit doesn't, open a ticket and the brand can pull the unit's logs remotely.

That's the floor sensor (probe in the screed/under tile) — a 10 kΩ NTC, easy for an electrician to test (around 10 kΩ at 25 °C). If cut or failed, most thermostats can switch to "air sensor only" mode temporarily while a replacement is fitted.

At the manifold, check the actuator on that loop is in the open position (the pin lifts when the zone calls for heat). If not, the wiring centre, thermostat batteries or actuator has failed. Loops can also be airlocked — bleed at the manifold air-vent first.

Usually linked: the exhaust-hose seal at the window kit is letting warm air in and condensate is building. Re-seat the window kit, check the hose isn't kinked or over 1.5 m, and empty the tank. An "E7" code means refrigerant is depleted — that needs manufacturer service.

1. Is the thermal cut-out reset button popped out (behind a small cover on the thermostat)?
2. Is the immersion thermostat above 60 °C (it can drift)?
3. Is the spur switch actually live?
4. Power on but still cold — likely a failed element; a G3 plumber can swap it in about an hour.

Heat pumps/outdoor units: silver label on the right-hand casing. Boilers: under the lower flap behind the front panel. Cylinders: front rating plate near the immersion. Thermostats/EV chargers: sticker behind the wall plate or underside. Photograph it at handover.

Most brands handle warranty directly with the end-customer — the numbers on this page are fastest. For brands where warranty runs through us (Eldom, Thermex, TTulpe, Vega, Haier heat-pump water heaters), call us first.

For some brands (Strom, AIZO own-brand, Becker & Wolf) yes — email service@qualityheating.co.uk with the serial and part number. For Baxi, Worcester, Vaillant, Mitsubishi etc., parts go through the brand's own genuine-parts network — we can point you to the right one.

Keep the Benchmark Certificate (gas/oil), MCS Certificate (heat pump/solar) or Part P certificate (electric). Most manufacturers require these at registration. If the installer didn't leave one, request it now — it's a legal handover document.